Below are the 20 most recent journal entries recorded in cryptomail's LiveJournal:

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Sunday, February 7th, 2010
11:16 am	Crumudgeon post about the iPad First of all, let's make a dictionary. When I say fluffy bunny I mean to say what you do when raise your third finger up high, whilst holding down the other four fingers. When I say piece of pie, I really mean to say what happens when you sit on a toilet bowl. To all the people who have blogged about and gushed about the iPad: Fluffy bunny. To all the people who have complained of there being no support of Flash on the iMaxiPad: Fluffy Bunny. It's just a stupid device. It's also a piece of pie. I don't give a piece of pie about it. The whole thing is stupid. Everything. There's nothing Earth shattering about it. There's nothing ground breaking about it. It's just a different form factor for the same old piece of pie that Apple has been cramming down people's throats, and charging an arm and a leg for. Who cares. How are these stupid things going to help ME get MY work done. I have work products to produce. How will an iMaxiPad help ME get my work done? How will it help ANYONE get their work done? How does even the iTinCanOnAString even help do that? The whole thing, the whole platform is irrelevant, useless, over priced, frivolous, and silly. I see utter, complete stupidity all around me. The Starbucks barrista making $12.00/hr at most probably spends $100 a month on her iTinCanOnAString habit, and that's not including the iCantina impulse buys. Good job Steve Jobs. You're an asshole. You created something that just perpetuates people's consumerism at a time when people need more introspection, and need to save. This is going to be the karmic thing that bites you. Your success in this will ultimately be your downfall. I see no good, no salient value, no positive message. I only see something that people want to put in their pockets and have the ability to pull out in a crowd, and pet once in a while, like a shiny pet rock. That's what Apple has created. It's like Apple is like Spencers at the mall. They have piano ties, rainbow suspenders, emo fall out boy shirts, and pet rocks. Good fluffy bunny job dude. Good luck with this. Ultimately, again, to reiterate, this will come back to bite you. The industry needs a change. The people who buy these pies need a change. It will come, but now, it will be by force, and it will be uncomfortable. And that's my curmudgeon command line only post. (5 Comments |Comment on this)
Saturday, January 30th, 2010
12:02 am	This never gets old. You told me, I see you rise But, it always falls I see them come, I see them go he said, "All things pass into the night" And I said, "Oh no sir I must say you're wrong I must disagree, oh no sir, I must say you're wrong" Won't you listen to me You told me, I've seen it all before I've been there, I've seen my hopes and dreams Are lying on the ground I've seen the sky just begin to fall he said, "All things pass into the night" And I said, "Oh no sir, I must say you're wrong I must disagree, oh no sir, I must say you're wrong" Won't you listen to me Good-bye horses - I'm flying over you [repeat 3x] Good-bye horses - I'm flying, flying, flying over you (Comment on this)
Friday, January 8th, 2010
10:39 am	Playing with the bull.... This morning was fun. I woke up at 5:30, sauntered into the bathroom and as I brushed my teeth I was looking in the mirror and pondering about the swell that was purportedly coming in. I don't check the sites as obsessively any more, maybe once a day. Yesterday's data indicated it could be double overhead, so that's what I was thinking about while I was making a grimace while going top to bottom rapidly, feverishly creating a lot of foam. After the bathroom, I followed the same path as usual, and gathered all my stuff, in the same mechanical way I always do, so as to not forget anything. Patterns, habit, and regiments are good if you don't want to forget anything. The only thing I 'broke' in the pattern was last night, I combed by board with the wax comb, so as to make things faster. Chris always gets to the beach before I do, so I figured I'd tweak things to give me three minutes lead time, and him less three minutes of arms folding and foot tapping. After warming up the motorcycle, I begin my journey to Sloat. When I get there, it's 6:42 and it's still quite dark. I see Chris there of course and we have our first conference. I took one look, and noted the tide was really high there, and if there was any drift, I didn't want anything to do with the Southern Rocks of Despair. From what we could see, we noted some sets coming through, and they were sizable. My internal gut feeling was that I could take on Sloat, but if I had an option to not even deal with rocks, then I probably would take that, and I that's what I told Chris. Chris promptly said, OK, let's go to the Chalet. It was a done deal. We motored to the Chalet, dismounted our vehicles, and suited up. It was decided without merely a look, we were going in. Chad then pulls up while we're getting ready and that made three. After suiting up, it was a bit lighter, and I could see what we were in for. Things always look small from the beach. It would be quite a foolish person to even remotely call something 'small' while standing on the shore. Everything is small from the shore. Everything. When you've been in double overhead plus surf before, your perspective changes quite a bit, once you attempt to get out. One day, I was being a newbie jackass, and I called something small in front of Chris. He basically called me a jackass, and said 'dude, count how long it takes for that wave to break'. He was right. That day, I counted two mississippi's for the wave to go top to bottom. That meant only one thing. It was big. Bigger than I originally thought, while I was standing on dry, flat, paved, parking lot land. So, I took one look at today's conditions and counted that same kind of mississippi's and I knew right then we were going to get into it. The only questions in my mind related to how these beasts were breaking. Were they going top to bottom or were they folding gently on themselves, peeling nicely with relatively soft, forgiving shoulders. It looked as if it was a mixed bag from shore, which is why I think we had absolutely no qualms about just jumping right in. I thought to myself, "Today would be about wave selection then, more than anything. OK." The three of us then get to the waters edge, put our leashes on, and headed in. Chad led the charge the whole way while Chris and I kind of sandbagged behind. We were the watchers. Just ahead was a big, angry, unforgiving, cookie monster bar that was folding very heavily on itself. Chad got pushed back on one monster close chomp, but then absolutely charged over something that I thought for sure would bite him. I saw his feet narrowly escape over the top-to-bottom lip while I was still inside, biding my time. That wasn't working out too well as I started to get more and more of the closeout power as I was getting closer and closer. Finally a lull long enough for me to get through let me pass, and as I saw another monster building, I sprinted as hard as I could to get past it, and I did. Phase one complete: I got past the monster inner bar. At this point I had lost both Chris and Chad from my sights, and was kind of wondering where they were, what the outside looked like, and how it would affect me, given my newly acquired position. I knew from experience that generally, once you make it past the inner bar, it's a great time to rest and you don't have to worry about too much. The paddle generally isn't going to be tough. You still have to worry, but it's more about reading what's happening on the outside and how to get there without getting pummeled really hard because of a cockpit error. Today's interval was relatively long so while the waves were big and powerful, there was time to plot to get to the break zone. I finally found Chris and Chad, and I paddled over to them. I thought they were a little inside, but I figured it wouldn't be too much of a problem. As I got to them, I sat on my board, and took a rest and watched what was going on. The waves here were pretty sizable and thick. It was the thickness that was of note, mostly. We saw a wave coming, and Chris and I sat as we saw Chad to our right go for it. It was a big, thick, heavy wave, and Chad almost got into it, but at the last moment kicked out because it was about to fold over very nastily, and it did exactly that. He managed to get off the bull relatively unscathed. There was another wave coming shortly after that, and based on my position, I decided I would charge it. It was building and cresting and Chris was in an OK position to get it, but asked if I was going and I said yes and then he backed off. The wave started to get bigger and bigger as it neared me, and I paddled hard to get into it. I managed to get into it just as it was cresting and I felt my board go into the wave, and I stood up, but this wave was not something I could manage. Standing up like a man doesn't mean you're going to get treated like one. This angry wave folded over very hard and was too steep for me to handle. I probably was too far forward on the board, and the nose caught, and that was that. The rest of the beast folded on top of me and I could feel the violence, followed by the foot drag. I popped up, looked around and blew it off, no worse for the wear, and went back to them. A few waves were coming in, nothing too terribly big of note, until...I could see a big set coming in. I saw something out there that made me think to myself, "hmm better get outside a bit", so I said "outside" and everyone followed. As that wave past, I kind of barely made it over it, and then I caught a glimpse of something that was even bigger. Internally something went off saying "outside" and I promptly vocalized it very loudly to Chris and Chad. I was feverishly paddling to try to scrap over something that was coming. It kept building. I could see the darkness of the lip forming and it was then that I wondered what I was going to do...paddle harder and try to make it under the lip that was going to fold over, or just stay there and deal with the wash. I opted for going closer to the beast. It was certainly the right decision because a lip smash from this wave would not be good, and where I was currently, would have been right where the lip would have folded over. This was at least a 15 foot wave that was coming and I needed to get over it any way I could, so after sprinting as hard as I could, I thought I'd be close enough where I could get over the lip. I was wrong. Very wrong. I didn't get the 15 foot lip folding onto me, but what happened next was ultra violent. I started to go over the lip forward, but then I found myself vertical, holding onto the board, in free fall. That's when I said to myself 'oh shi---'. I couldn't even finish my words, as my board and I went deep, very deep. The board was then ripped from my hands and I hit the bottom, pushed to the sandy floor on the outside. At least I knew what direction to swim. My next thought was more or less thinking and worrying about taking another one exactly like that in that zone, not too far off into the future. Sure enough, I was right in the impact zone after coming up, so I inhaled some foam and watched another huge macker just absolutely violently throw down right on top of me. I was pushed further inside, and I had the same thoughts...another one coming to get me, or what? When I came back up, I collected my board and just breathed. I marveled at the pure, complete, unadulterated, powerful, punishment, and headed back out to them. I mentally went in at this point, but my friends were out there, and there was a lull, so I decided to go back out and just collect myself more, maybe catch a wave, maybe not, who knows. So I start to go back out, and then Chris and Chad start to come in. I think after my 'wave' they'd seen and been in enough. Then I see Chris and Chad on the inside by Cookie Monster, and Chris is doing the 'lasso-wrap things up buddy' with his arm. In my head I was all "dude, fuck. I already did that", and to be honest, I was happy he called it at that point. I could have made it back out and probably caught a wave, but being alone out there wasn't such a good prospect, so I followed suit and started my way in. Of course that's going to be tricky...I see a medium size wave that's my ticket in, that happened to break on the outside that would serve as something to get me past the cookie monster inner bar, if I stayed on it. I got on the back of my board and took the wash in, passing directly between Chris and Chad, scoring the surfer field goal :) I wanted absolutely nothing to do with a stall at the cookie monster zone, so after my beating I was going to take this wave as far and fast inside as possible :) When I got back in I noted OB was starting to get angrier. I was forced to the shore very powerfully and tossed around like flotsam as I hit the beach. Chris too, who was beside me was tossed and was laughing. We all laughed heartily as our feet were free of the water, as we stood on the sand. This was a good morning. (1 Comment |Comment on this)
Wednesday, January 6th, 2010
11:36 pm	For the record.... 1) Surfed some nice waves from 7-8, from then on got a little cookie monstery at Sloat. I think my friend Chris is a surf totem, who when leaves, makes everything fall apart. I swear when he's not around it's like the tiki shit happening Brady Bunch style. 2) Worked like a dickens and got this mega super ultra difficult yet important project 3) Went to the RipTide to meet up with some Ocean Beach People. Hapapower in meatspace, Tom, Tracey, Andre, Mark, Max, and forgot his name but the young lawyer dude were all awesome :) 4) Rode bike doing 3, and it's been a while since I've hit SOMA to OB over Portola and back. I deserved to do it. It's a challenge after a while of not doing it, yet surfing every day. I owe it to myself to do it once a week, as a surf adventure. The Moto is good, but my roots are surfing on the bike. I used to do it every day. No reason to stop other than I'm "saving time". 5) On the way home from the Rip, I high fived someone hailing a cab, like that silly youtube video. Dunno why I did it. It just seemed like the thing to do, and I didn't even think about it. A hand was up. I was riding my bike. I connected. Kinda LOL :D (Comment on this)
Friday, January 1st, 2010
8:55 pm	Thoughts on Avatar... 1) There were some continuity / editing issues... I found myself distracted when there was obvious plot direction when they were running out of time or something. It was a half ass editing/plot job and it really wasn't subtle. That annoyed the hell out of me. It was as if someone scribbled on a baroque masterpiece. 2) Sometimes there was a little too much cheese. It got spread around pretty damn well to the point that I was annoyed at times. Again, same result: Baroque masterpiece being shat on. Underneath you still have a great movie with a great premise of course, which made it. But dammit, it needed better direction at times. Ugh. Sitting in chair clapping. Edit: haha reading rotten tomatoes....same conclusions kind of :) (1 Comment |Comment on this)
Thursday, December 31st, 2009
6:39 pm	Kame Osoi says Happy New Year (Comment on this)
Monday, December 28th, 2009
9:15 pm	saru..... (Comment on this)
12:34 pm	Stewart Smalley... I took a look at Sloat again and the pain was too much. I could see waves that were taking a loooooooooooong time to finish up after starting to break. That means only one thing: It's heavy and big. Saw Chris there, and his time was running out, and with no one else going out, I figured, yeah...I'm gunna take a trip down back memory lane......and see if I can actually do this surf thing. So, I went to Linda Mar. It was a great morning. Caught so many waves and it was all under control. A lot of closeouts, but I didn't care. They weren't going to punish me that hard. Anyway, so yeah I can surf, and stand on my board, that's been proven today. After three goddam days of 14foot waves to the head and numerous UGLY botched attempts on monsters, it gets to you, you know? :) I'll be ready for you OB you nasty heavy beast. I'm just recharging. (Comment on this)
Saturday, December 26th, 2009
6:53 pm	Playing with the bull.... Ocean Beach has been interesting the last few days. I've been out in double overhead plus surf for the last two days and I've been absolutely getting the shit kicked out of me. I charge waves, but I find that they're so steep, that when I try to pop up, it gets messy. Real messy :) Not only have I been having trouble conquering 12 foot bombs because they've been pitching when I want to catch them...but the last few days I've seen some waves to the head where I've cried uncle a few times. I'm not scared really, it's just that looking up at a double overhead wave that is about to lip you honestly is not the best feeling in the world. My heart just sinks and then I sigh "oh well". Then what ends up happening is you just get rag dolled pretty hard, and if you're unfortunate enough, you'll still catch the rising lip and you'll be exploded up and then slammed down, free falling for a whole second...and if you hold your board, you can really get jaunted about pretty harshly. Out there in the lineup, when there are guys around and a lip came to take a few of us out, I held onto my board and so did the other guys. That was none too comfortable for anyone, so I can't tell you how honored I am to be surfing with those kind of guys. This one guy who was the co-pummelee remarked right after that "Ah shit, that one hurt my back, that's it, I'm going in.". Goddam man, if I could know your name or shake your hand I would, because holding onto that big gun of yours in those adverse circumstances really saved everyone a lot of grief. Anyway, tomorrow's a day off I think, good surf or not. I need to regroup. I've had good days and bad days, but these waves....have created a string of kind of bad days. I don't mind getting out there, and I don't mind the big surf really, but I'll tell you, I've been playing with the bull. I got the horns. Time for a day off. Good surf, or not. (2 Comments |Comment on this)
Friday, December 25th, 2009
10:24 pm	captured u (Comment on this)
7:43 pm	Merry Christmas, here's your gift: Giraffe pole stripper avec une boule disco Merry Christmas. (Comment on this)
Wednesday, December 23rd, 2009
7:04 pm	Wherein we draw For no good reason at all, as of late, I've been musing on learning how to draw. I just write code for work, and I surf. As far as artistic things go, sometimes I make really really bad videos and really bad music. I have friends that help me make the music better though, so post-processing and really good quality in helps a great deal on the way out :) I'm all alone in the office, and I had a bad day, so here's my first drawing I've ever done since my freshman year in High School. (2 Comments |Comment on this)
Tuesday, December 22nd, 2009
6:51 am	I heard about this in the parking lot at Sloat. If we're looking for reasons, then I wish Eric wasn't in good shape, or I wish there were some kind of excuse for this that could be just a simple explanation away. Eric was a bigger guy, in great shape, then all of a sudden, just gone. http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=214129151563 (Comment on this)
Thursday, December 17th, 2009
10:49 pm	Just Desserts.... Today was one of the best surfing days I've had in a good while. At every turn I found myself to be lucky and rife with good fortune because every decision I made starting from last night, was the right one. Let's begin there: After a hard day's work yesterday closing some issues, I look at my vacation balance and decide "yeah I can burn one here, why not?". Then, I decide to look at the swell model. The swell model says 2-3 times overhead at OB, which means, there's going to be an F-TON worth of energy. A few days before however, my good friend Colin says, hey let's go to mystotown some time, it's only about 65 miles away :). I had never been to mystotown, and my stomping ground has mainly been Sloat or Noriega. It's heavy as F there, and when I say heavy I mean it. Last week on tap were some big, barreling, mean and fast double overhead waves, and if you played with the bull, sometimes indeed, you got the horns. Anyway, today would have been that kind of day at OB, if you got out. From all accounts, takers and not, it was indeed a shitfest. Lucky decision number one made in the evening yesterday, was to burn a vacation day and head to mysto town indeed. So, I sent an email to all saying it was a holy day, left my cell for any emergencies, and went home. Then at home, out of habit, I set my alarm for obscene thirty, and went to bed. Lucky decision number two was to poop before bed. Thought I'd put that in here since we're counting, and it was numerically apropos. The alarm starts ringing and out of instinct, knowing subconsciously that I had a vaykayday, I let the alarm ring. Twice. So 15min of snoozing was the reward I got for the autopilot system knowing that I wasn't in hurry mode. So I got out of bed, got dressed, and suited up for the motorcycle. Lucky decision number three. I didn't have to pay the toll since I was motorpooling. I got to my office where I keep the boards and then I had the arduous task of choosing a board. Having looked at the swell model locally and not for mystotown, I was all "hmmmmmmm 6'6 could be OK, but the 7.0mini may be better, esp if it's out of control" I kept going back and forth and back and forth since I can only carry one on the motorcycle, so then I finally rationalized it this way: "OK, well if it's not out of control at mystotown you'll just be a smidge overboarded, but if it IS out of control there, you'll be glad you did". So that's why it was Lucky decision number three. Limiting my options made me choose the right one for today's "job" :) So...I roll up to Colin's house and I'm all damn dude, I gotta #2 again. This wasn't meant to be a shit posting, but I'll be honest, yesterday the company had a party and I ate a lot. I'm an opportunistic feeder since I get a lot of exercise, so today was the repercussions day. Anyway....We load up and head out and get gas on the way to mystotown. I get a cup of coffee at Starbucks and we begin the longish drive. We got to the mystospot and it was a bit flooded as we saw at Sloat. Only Sloat was flooded and angry as hell. This was just a bit flooded and relatively clean. On the path down to the mystospot we saw some locals with boards just hanging out and drinking beer. Ah to have that luxury on a Thursday morning. I guess that's what happens in mystotown for some people. You just enjoy yourself, reflect on the day on the beautiful, majestic California Coast. It was absolutely breath taking. Anyway, Lucky decision number four was to go again to the bathroom, I guess I was like a puppy getting too excited at this point because I could not believe my eyes. Mystotown's mystospot was absolutely different than the frothing anger I saw about an hour earlier. I saw big clean lines gently folding and emitting spray to the back from gentle offshores, from one side of the rocks, towards the inside, and it was then, that I knew Lucky decision number five was to be here. The tide at this point was too big, but it was falling, and it was actually surf-able at this point. We saw what looked like two college age kids head down, while we took our time. So we waited a bit, talked about stuff and really took in the California Coast. Sloat and Noriega are pretty I guess, but this...this was different. This really was more raw and special. It was completely clear to me why mystospot had cars parked in front of it now, it truly was a beautiful place. So, after talking a bit and just relaxing, we decide to suit up. We suit up, and we head down, and when we get down to the beach we see the two college age kids heading back up. We ask them "why are you LEAVING?????????" "It's too big" I never ever like to dickswing, it's pointless. When I first started surfing I could *specifically* remember going out to Sloat and shitting my pants, wondering how the *HELL* am I ever going to get in, having made it out so stupidly. However, Colin and I kinda joked about it on the way down because we were in utter disbelief that anyone could leave anything so nice and firing so relatively cleanly all behind. They had shortboards, the both of them, so come on, they HAD to have known what they were doing. Anyway, no dick swinging, we just found it odd that someone would pass on 6 to 10ft crumbling and non hollow waves, that's all :) So we take a look and decide the best line of attack is in the middle. I said I was attacking 'El Centro', dove in and Colin followed suit. We made it out practically with dry hair. El Centro was the best way, and there was minimal to no current. Now it was game time. We made it to the outside and stuff was firing. Colin starts on something pretty steep, makes it, and just absolutely disappears. All I saw was his head going down rapidly, and then his hand he used for balance, that was in the air, and that was the last I saw of him. It had to be at least a 10ft wave that had pushed him all the way inside, and from the look of it, the wave built in sections from the middle inside to the inside because I saw some major spray from some carves he was doing :) Then I guess it was my turn. I got lulled inside a bit too much and then a big one came in and I tried for it, but it folded right on top of me, and that was that. I tumbled around after a flailing abort, got back on my board, and repeated the exact same damn thing. Colin I saw had been nailing more waves while I flailed trying to find the right position and taking some pretty big set waves to the head. One actually was pretty explosive and gave me an uh-oh moment. It broke right in front of me and I could see about 5ft of wash just freight training in front of me. I tried to duck dive it, but I knew it was futile, it was just a reflex reaction that enabled me more or less to simply hold onto the board better. I never ditch the board, it's bad practice. The board may or may not get exploded away from me, but if I can help it, that board stays with me no matter what. Some guys will ditch and try their leash luck. I prefer to hold on and try my luck by holding on. Anyway, the sets were really coming in stronger now and after that big dumptruck of water on me, I managed to claw my way back out. Colin was in position and then I saw "it". Colin had gone for a wave that was curling over pretty hard and probably could have made it, but then it was getting too sketchy for him so he kicked out but the board went over the falls but he didn't. He scrapped towards the back side of the wave and then that was that, Colin's board had a different idea about where it wanted to be. Colin promptly said "I lost my board, my leash snapped" haha. Then I said "really? LOL" I shouldn't have laughed but it wasn't *that* bad out there and we both knew it. Sure it was big, but not humungo big where I couldn't eventually render service should that be a necessity. It turns out it wasn't. I went over to Colin and we started going to the inside. Then I started laughing because he was the one without the board at this point, yet somehow I felt like *I* was more in danger because of the waves breaking. This was in fact the case and I found myself laughing trying to get back outside a bit on waves that I thought I had no business being on belly on. So we finally made it back to the inside and I could spot Colin's board with a few seagulls around it. Colin didn't know where it was so I just made my way to the inside, ran up, and got it, while he walked over. It was still early at this point, as we had only been in for an hour. So we slap the boards back in his truck and head to mystotown to buy a new leash. We get to the surf shop, buy a leash, eat a slice of Trader Joe's pesto pizza that he brought along, and we head back to mystospot. And...finally...that's when things started going my way :) We hung out on the middle outside for a bit, but then I see this one dude wayyyy outside at some peak. He's hooded, on a 6'4 probably, and absolutely killing it. He passed us by giving us the requisite spray and that's when I got pissed and went to his spot. It looked like his drop was pretty gnarly but I didn't care at this point. I was kind of pissed and I was ready to absolutely charge. Two flails, a couple freight trains of pushback, at this point, I didn't care what happened because as far as I was concerned the worst already DID happen. So I went out there, and then a big ole wave came and started to curl over me, and I simply paddled into it, felt the board take, and then promptly stood up :) It was steep, but dammit wouldn't you know it, that wave was *holding up*. Yes it broke, but a big fat wave that is breaking is still a big fat wave. It's not a big hollow wave that will eat you like cookie monster. These were the waves of the day, kind of like what happens at Dreamland in Bali. I distinctly remembered that, and then just started charging that outside peak as much as I could. I scored and scored, and we bobbed around there for hours. Furry otters and kelp were everywhere, and I remarked how I had never actually seen anything like what was so clearly expounded in the book 'Caught Inside'. Today was just desserts. No brussel sprouts, no corn, no potatoes, no meat or chicken or fish. Just desserts. (Comment on this)
Wednesday, December 16th, 2009
12:03 am	Wherein we lose another battle in the war of nicethings(tm) Side window shattered. I could care less except now, it's cold and possibly colder :). A window is like security theater. If you want in, you just break it and get in, and then take what you want. It's a thin sheen of veneer on top of a laughable, flimsy base. There was nothing of value in the car except maybe the nice craptastic interior that could have been 'not outside', and a nice playtime respite for a hobo. It stunk like shit in there, so I'm guessing it was a hobo anyway! :) The radio was still in there because it wasn't a pullout that I forgot! It came with the 92 Miata! I should just rip it out now to abate further discovery attempts. Anyway, I don't plan on fixing the window. So that's that. Maybe I'll tape it with some plastic to abate the wind from getting in, but that's that! My POS car got POS'ier haha! So as an obvious reminder, cherish what your things can do for you, not the things themselves. It makes no sense to cherish and covet nice things sometimes. Everything is transitory and subject to entropy anyway. The car still drives and gets me from A to B. I have taken care of its major parts that afford me that luxury. Maybe one day I won't have that luxury any more. When that day comes I'll probably laugh too. (2 Comments |Comment on this)
Sunday, December 13th, 2009
5:30 pm	la di da da da dahhhh For my birthday I treated myself to two surf sessions: One at Linda Mar, and the other at Fort Point. http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/7466/hairychest.jpg (Comment on this)
1:46 pm	The war against crack(heads) The war against crack(heads) continues. This is my latest salvo. http://img694.yfrog.com/i/waragainstcrackheads.jpg/ (Comment on this)
Thursday, December 10th, 2009
1:10 pm	My surfing sucks (and I don't care, but have a plan I think?) Here are some thoughts about surfing. Today was a pretty nice day. It started out relatively clean and a not so hard paddle to the outside. The period wasn't too short, so while there were some bombs going off, getting to the outside wasn't impossible. I can get out, usually. I'm stupid and stubborn enough to not let OB get the best of me. It's happened of course, but I'd say I've got a pretty good batting average. My problems start when I actually get out there. When you're staring down a 10-11-12 foot wave that's curling over, do you go? Do you charge, and go for it, or do you pass and try to scrap over the ledge and wait for another one? Today I didn't charge. Wave after wave that was one guy's stoke was my bok bok chicken cluck. There's a mental block I have, and it's fear. Fear is good, it helps us maintain our lives (not die). The trick in big (such a relative term here after watching the Eddie yesterday) wave surfing is to not be scared and use one's rote skills. All you have to do is stand up haha. Easy in electronic form to write, easy to blabber to your friends in the lot, not so easy when you're on your 7' minigun wondering if this is the monster you should be paddling into. I'm lacking in my ability to handle steepness. I need to work on this. I tend to pick nice soft shoulders that (relatively) gently push me into the pocket. Now it's time to learn how to step it up. I don't know how that's going to happen, but I know one thing: I have to lose the fear. I think it may be time to just let things happen and wipe out on big ones if necessary. Today would have been the perfect day to eat it hard too. There weren't too many waves behind the set waves, so if I had to resort to scratching back to the surface after a massive wipe out, it could have been manageable and a two wave hold down would have been not very likely. I have the current luxury of sitting behind a keyboard typing this in a warm cubicle. We'll see when the opportunity presents itself again, how I do. Chicken signing off for now...... BOK BOK (5 Comments |Comment on this)
Saturday, November 21st, 2009
11:19 am	ATT DSL ONLY PLZ, DITCH LOCAL PHONE KTHX NO MORE Q'S I just had to tell ATT that I don't want local phone service. They asked me three times how I was getting local phone service. Time 1: I don't want to disclose that, none of your business thank you. Time 2: Carrier pigeon, followed by what's carrier pigeon Time 3: Carrier pigeon, it's when you put messages on pigeons feetseees and set them free. (1 Comment |Comment on this)
Saturday, November 7th, 2009
3:18 pm	Wavequest and serendipity Up at 5:50. Brushed teeth, did some nastayyyy bidness, put on moto clothes and headed out. I went to Sloat, and there were some guys huddling. I rolled up, got of the bike, locked the helmet and joined the huddle.  Well wouldn't you know, the usual suspects.  John, Mark, Mark, and Dude. We 'held court' for a few minutes pondering the situation.  The energy from afar was clearly there, but the swell looked way too mixed up.  There was long period and short period swell in there along with size, producing at times huge double overhead folding monsters, mixed in with bars and bars of whitestuff.  It didn't look good. As we talked about the swell and the minutia of it, we did what all surfers do while watching...project yourself on some of the waves you're seeing.  Projection is good.  Vision is everything.  If you can't envision yourself doing something, you'll NEVER EVER do it.  So a keen eye for what the future holds is what is key in making your own reality. After court, the verdict was a no-go.  Too messy.  Not that we couldn't make it outside, but what to do once we got there.  We could in fact project ourselves out there, but once there, it was obvious that we had some folding monsters and some not-so-nice shoulders to work with.  Given that, we adjusted course to North Ocean Beach -- The Chalet. I hopped on the motorcycle and followed in tow, and when we got there, we were confronted with less size and less organization.  Again 4 bars of white.  This did NOT look good. We held court again and the verdict was off to Fort Point, at least to take a look. Well, at this point (I think it was like 7:40 or something), I opted to go back South and at least look at Linda Mar.  So, I bid them goodbye and safe travels, and went on my way back South. On the way...however, I decided to go back and look at Sloat. It was a good thing I did.  That is where I met Duncan.  Duncan and I usually meet up at dawn since he's a Sloat regular too. Duncan had been looking and he too decided it was too nuts, so he mentioned that Half Moon Bay would be a good bet. I told him I was on the way to Linda Mar, and we both agreed to just stop there. We took a look, and both decided it was an utter shitfest as well, so off to Half Moon Bay we went. When we got there...... We saw that the waves were holding up OH so nicely. I felt given the circumstances we had hit utterly pure gold. I changed into my suit as fast as I could.... I hit the water running.... and I scored some decent, held up waves. The wavequest may have been a long journey, but it was well worth it. (Comment on this)